Hidden on the not as famous side of JR Shinjuku Station is Shinjuku Gyoen (Shinjuku gardens). It’s a stunningly beautiful space, divided into Japanese, French, and British traditional gardens, as well as a large greenhouse of tropical plants, and plenty of walkways popular with runners. I visit Shinjuku Gyoen every time I go to Japan, it’s a perfect example of what makes Japan so special – the blend of history and culture with technology and bustling cities.
Within Shinjuku Gyoen is a tucked away traditional tea house, called Rakuutei. It’s a quaint little house and a bit hard to get the hang of, so let us run you through it. Outside the front door is a typical vending machine for pre-purchasing food and drinks. You need to put your money in first, before pressing the button. I was confused for a while when the button wasn’t lighting up no matter how many times I pressed it, but as soon as you put money in the machine it will light up! For 700 yen you’ll get tea and a traditional sweet dessert.
After you’ve gotten your ticket, step inside the doors. A lovely lady in a kimono greeted us and told us to sit anywhere we liked – it was actually empty when we went in except for a cute elderly couple who looked like they were on a date! The setting is slightly formal, but don’t worry too much as it is inside a tourist attraction and they don’t expect you to be formal. A Japanese sweet dessert will be brought out first, and exactly what it is will change seasonally. Japanese sweets are one of the best showcases of Japanese sugar which is different to sugars used in Western countries. The smooth and chewy texture of traditional sweets is all thanks to the sugar used.
While you aren’t expected to be formal, you will be expected to eat and drink slowly and quietly. Really immerse yourself in the textures and tastes. The wooden stick provided with the sweet is so you can slice it and use it like a fork so don’t touch it with your hands. I visited during Summer, and received a matcha and red bean sweet. I’m not 100% exactly sure on what it was called though!
Our green tea came out shortly afterwards, and was in beautiful ceramic mugs. The tea is quite bitter, and the longer you let it sit the more bitter it will get. This is why tea is always accompanied by some sort of small sweet treat in Japan!
If you visit in the cooler months, take this as a welcome break from the cold and warm your hands and belly. Sip slowly and savour the taste while you enjoy your visit to Shinjuku Gyoen.
Shinjuku Gyoen is closed on Mondays and can be found at 11 Naitomachi, Shinjuku, Tokyo 160-0014. There are two tea houses inside the gardens, and plenty of maps and signs posted throughout the grounds to help you find them.
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